Recently, Saturday mornings found five curious women learning the art of Pilawaar embroidery, a needlework weaving technique from the country of Oman. The adventure and forging of new friendship began with Mary Wheeler, and her desire to learn a new language.In longing to learn Arabic, Mary started classes at the University of Oregon, where she met Mahfoudha al Balushi, a Fullbright student from Musqat, Oman, one of the most multicultural capitals in the world. Mahfoudha, pursuing her Master's degree in teaching English as a second language, is from a tribe of people distinguished by the name Balushi. The Balushi people inhabit coastal mountain ranges in Iran, Pakistan, and Afghanistan.
In the sultanate, each cultural group retains its own customs, food, and costumes, most obvious in the different dresses worn by the women. The most distinct part of the clothing is the embroidered Balushi dress, the Pandooli. The Pendooli is similar to the Salwar Kameez except for its prominent frot pocket (called pendool, which gives the dress its name) and gathered sides. The dress can be worn for every occasion, from housework to weddings.
Simple embroidery, a single thread color, to varying complex designs with 3 to 5 different thread colors may adorn the hems, cuffs, and yokes of the pendooli. Carved wooden stamps ink the trademark cross-thatched design on the garment. The woman sits quietly with her needle and thread, weaving beautifully intricate designs.
In today's markets, tailors can fill orders quicky through the use of machines, but Balushi embroidery must be done by hand. The elaborate nature and beauty of the work is unmatched. Sadly, Balushi hand embroidery may be dying out in Oman. The availability of lower priced dresses means most women buy from the markets. And employment and education are making the craft more of a hobby than a livelihood. Young women are rarely seen doing Balushi embroidery.
An embassador of her country, Mahfoudha was eager to teach the art of Pilawaar, a legacy learned at the knees of the elder women of her community. Tackling the intricacies of weaving small patterns with thin floss elicited giggles and aging-eyesight comments as we bent over our work. The quiet comradery settled around our shoulders as we mused on the gift of sitting at the knees of a generation of women, learning a beautiful needlework skill.
What an incredible time we shared, and thank you, Mahfoudha.
